Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Friday, March 19, 2010
Recycled Ping-Pong Table: This has been a could base for mounting the forms while covering the carpet. Surrounded by 1/4" plywood, it does not move around and is a stable platform. If I had it to do over, I would add a 2x4 reinforcement from side to side directly underneath the form feet. It rocks slightly when pushed from the side as I only have a 2x4 reinforcement down the middle of the tables underneath where the 2x6 mounts down the middle. With the carpet and padding underneath the protective plywood, it flexes a bit underneath my feet and is very comfortable to stand on, unlike cement floors.
Gum Containers: I looked at an empty Eclipse gum container and being a pack rat it looked too good to throw out. So I asked myself, "Self, What could you use this for?" And the self answered, "Screws". They are terrific. The top unscrews for loading, the clear top allows seeing what's inside, it opens as a shaker spout for or the clear top pops open. Way cool. I'm chewing alot of gum now trying to get enough containers for all the different screw sizes. Maybe they should advertise that!
Monday, March 15, 2010
The next evening, my friend Rick was recruited again and he dismantled the second bottom piece from the boat while I cleaned off my working table so we could put in screw holes and epoxy away. Rick is now a fully trained professional grade epoxy applicator guy so I've got him ready for helping with fiberglassing the hull. This second bottom piece went in place nicely and a couple of beers were consumed in celebration.
The next part was the last two pieces to finish the bottom. The first step was to make the reinforcing butt pieces for the joint. Pieces of 1/4" plywood were ripped the approximate width to fit between the battens. Each piece is about 9" long. They were then fit, epoxied, clamped and screwed with about 4 each of #8 3/4" screws. Then the bottom piece was cut, fit, epoxied, screwed and clamped. Pretty simple compared to the rest of the bottom and side pieces.
Monday, March 8, 2010
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
The next day, my wife and I went and looked at the Mark 25. It had the remote control set-up, but needed a bit of TLC. Unfortunately his father was supposed to meet us there with the fuel tank for it but he could not find it and may have been lost in a recent move. I was told this motor had a new waterpump put on it two years ago and had been running fairly recently. The compression seemed good by pulling the starter rope. The motor colors are Sarasota Blue/Sand Tan. My wife thought the color combo was retro and would look cool. So knowing an old motor is a bit of a gamble, we reached an agreement on price, loaded it up and took it home.
It seems to me at this time that Sarasota Blue/Sand/Tan may be a relatively rare color combination. I've seen pictures of Mercury Green/Sand Tan, Sunset Orange/Sand Tan and Marlin Blue/Gulf Blue on other Mark 25's in pictures on the web of various antique motor club meets or in the Antique Outboarder magazine. I haven't seen this color combo yet. It reminds me of a 1956 two tone Chevy Belaire. Guess I'll find out as I learn more. I ordered and
received a service manual and fuel connector from East Coast Marine and hope to purchase a fuel tank, hose etc. soon and get this baby in a garbage can full of water and see if it fires up. Here's hoping I have an outboard and not just a pretty boat anchor.
March 6, 2010 Update:
I put together a 3 gallon plastic fuel tank with quick disconnect to tank fittings, hose, primer bulb and the connector to the motor. I did a 50:1 ratio mix by putting 2 1/2 oz. of two cycle oil and a gallon of gasoline in the tank....shaken, not stirred. Since it was a 50 degree sunny day, this was my chance to see if it would start. Using the bottom from a defunct shop vac, I put it under the outboard and filled it with water which was about 3-4" over the top of the cavitation plate. I hooked up the fuel line, opened the tank vent, squeezed the primer bulb about 10 times until fuel could be felt in the bulb and I could smell it. Then I set the choke and gave the starter rope a pull...nothing except water sloshing all over. I enlisted my daughter to hold the back of the motor to stabilize it while I gave another pull...nothing. Another pull...nothing. Took off the choke, squeezed the primer bulb again and gave another pull and hot damn...it started running! (Big smile on face). I saw a stream of water coming out the hole at the top of the lower unit indicating the water pump was doing what it should, and then I slowed the motor down to shift speed and shifted into forward. Water started leaving the barrel as the prop churned it up. Tried reverse and saw that it worked and then back to neutral. I revved it up a bit, then slowed it down and ran it for a while so some pictures could be taken. I disconnected the fuel line and it ran for a couple of minutes until the fuel in the carb ran out. Hurray....it all works!
Going back to the first side, towards the rear of the boat, 4' x 18" piece was fit and aligned to match up to the 8' long piece. An angular cut was made to establish a butt joint between the two pieces of plywood. Lines were traced onto the back side to show it locations along the chines, shears, transom and stem. Then the pieces were removed and laid out on a long make-shift table. Screw hole locations were determined for placing screws every 3" along the chine and shear. Location holes were drilled from the backside (which had the traced lines) every 18" or so. Then the pieces were flipped over and the final holes were marked on the face side and all holes drilled with a countersinking bit.
Butt joint bonding: A piece of plastic was put on the table and then a piece of painters tape adhered along the underneath side of the joint to prevent epoxy from flowing everywhere. One side of the board was screwed to the table using the predrilled holes, the second piece was butted tight and also screwed in place. A liberal application of clear epoxy was applied and a 4" wide strip of fiberglass tape was laid into the joint. After sqeegeeing the epoxy, a piece of plastic sheet was laid over the whole mess, a plywood piece of wood laid on top and clamped down.The next day, after removing the clamps, the area over the fiberglass tape was fairly smooth but other areas had too much epoxy needing sanding. The second picture is my second panel for the other side of the boat and it did not come out as nice as my first one. It took quite alot of hand sanding to get this one smoothed down, but eventually it started to look better. Then I flipped it over and applied epoxy and fiberglass tape, but kept the tape shorter so it would not interfere with the fit to the chines and shear. A little more squeegee action and tighter clamping helped smooth it out. The whole surface of the plywood was epoxied as it will be on the inside of the boat and this is the easiest way to get it coated. This inside surface is the one shown in the prior picture showing the butt-joint clamping.
Securing to the boat: It was a marathon session gluing and screwing the plywood to the side of the boat. After mixing up a batch of epoxy, the frame surfaces and bonding area on the plywood was rolled and brushed with epoxy. Then a colloidal silica filler was added to the epoxy and this thickened goo was brushed onto frame members back to the middle frame. The panel was located to the frames with the previously mentioned locator screws. I rigged up a chain from the ceiling to support the rear of the long panel while I began clamping and screwing the front portion.
After clamping forward to the stem to ensure proper location, then clamps were placed adjacent to each screw hole and redrilled to put a pilot hole into the frame member and a #8 7/8" long silicon bronze screw was screwed into the hole. Progress was from the front of the boat rearward, removing clamps from previously screwed areas and re-clamping and drilling and securing three screws at a time. When I got to the middle of the boat, another batch of thickened epoxy was made and applied to the frames from that area rearward. In the forward and rear portions of the boat where the wrap is severe and a screw head may have pulled through, small blocks of wood were used with 1 5/8" drywall screws to secure the plywood in place until the epoxy cured. After 100 screws and almost two hours of non-stop action it was done. I worked up a good sweat and needed a beer.
The next day, the screw blocks were removed and replaced with a silicon bronze screw one at a time. Everything held in place. The overhanging plywood was trimmed off with a hand saw and planed and filed smooth with the chine, stem and transom. The portion along the bottom of the pictures will not get trimmed until the boat is flipped over. The last picture is at the transom after trimming off the excess side panel and sanding smooth with the surface of the transom. The way the side of this boat twists and rolls into the transom ("tumblehome" as its known in the auto and boat design community) is really cool. Since the boat is upside down, this roll is towards the bottom of the picture.